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About Kelleys Island
Kelleys Island (Erie County, OH), the largest American island in
Lake Erie, lies some four miles off the coast of the mainland at
Marblehead. First settled by the Erie Indians nearly a
millennium ago, its first Anglo-American settlers arrived during
the first decade of the 19th Century. However, the “Historic”
era did not begin until the 1830s when the entire island was
purchased by Datus and Irad Kelley (two brothers from the
Cleveland area).
Under the guidance and leadership of the Kelleys
throughout the 19th and well into the 20th Century, a
diversified, productive, and profitable economy was built.
General farming, viniculture and wine-making, quarrying, and
commercial fishing drew settlers from both the United States and
abroad. By the 1880s, a number of summer hotels and
boarding-houses dotted the south shoreline, servicing the needs
of vacationers from the United States, Canada and Europe.
Preserved guest registers attest to both the famous and infamous
visitors to the island.
By 1900 the permanent island inhabitants exceeded
2,000, most of whom were employed in the quarrying and
vineyards, and wine-making operations dotted throughout the
island. Foundations of houses and remnants of once
well-traveled roadways lie silent among the second and third
growth timber of these areas (southeast and south, a west of
Division, and on the northwest portion of the island).
Well into the 1920’s, the island could boast of a
thriving, and pretty much self-sufficient economy. For years
timbers cut from island forests fueled the steamboats of the
Great Lakes. Over 23 wineries, varying in size from family-run
enterprises, to large operations, sent their wares throughout
the world. Limestone, quarried in the west, north, and east
quarries, was shipped out to build the break walls of major Lake
Erie ports and roads on the mainland. For many years, pelts of
mink, fox, squirrel, and raccoon found lucrative markets.
Commercial fishermen raised their nets to full catches two or
three times a week in the waters around the island, supplying
fresh fish to much of Ohio and neighboring states.
By the same token, the island people, from
diverse cultures and backgrounds, engaged in an active social,
cultural and religious life. The Kelley family’s building of
the large stone Town Hall in 1860 provided a space for
theatrical and other public events, the records of which are
found in the island’s archives. By the end of the 19th Century,
the Himmelein family of theatrical impresarios had established
summer homes on the island and counted among their regular
guests some of the greatest artists of drama and music, many of
whom demonstrated their skills to local audiences.
A network of elementary schools was established
in various parts of the island and, by 1901, an imposing school
building was erected to take care of all grades of the
burgeoning school population.
Various ethnic and nationality groups formed
their own religious organizations: Roman Catholic, Russian
Orthodox, German Reformed, Presbyterian, Methodist, Evangelical
United Brethren.
The “town,” on the central south shore, included
grocery stores, a butcher shop, a furniture and hardware store,
a shoe shop, a bowling alley, various saloons, and private
social clubs. Local farmers delivered their produce and milk to
the islanders’ homes, peach and apple orchards abounded, and a
local physician attended to the islanders’ health needs.
By the 1930s, however, the island had gone into a
decline. Prohibition had nearly wiped out the vineyard and
wine-making industry. Quarries, opened on the mainland,
competed effectively with the island’s stone and gravel
business. By the late 1940s, the one remaining industry,
commercial fishing, fell prey to both changes in the law and
lake pollution. With its economy in a shambles, the island
population dropped precipitously. By the 1950s, the permanent,
year ‘round residents, mostly retired persons, numbered less
than 100. Most of the schools closed; all of the remaining
students—often no more than a dozen--were gathered under the
single roof of the Estes School building. Churches closed and
many of their buildings were either torn down or used for other
purposes.
By 1950, there were only two left—one serving the
Roman Catholic population and the other the Protestant
congregation. Attempts to revive the economy failed miserably.
For a short while, a portion of the quarrying
operation was attempted, but, badly financed, it went bankrupt.
Even an attempt to establish a mouse-trap factory came to
naught.
While the other islands of Lake Erie, without the
same economic background as Kelleys, thrived on the tourist
trade, Kelleys languished. Without a population base to serve
the growing tourist industry—or the funds to support this new
endeavor—the climb back to prosperity was slow and, at times,
precarious.
During the most recent decades, Kelleys has made
major strides at establishing a well-balanced economy, which
capitalizes on showcasing its uniqueness, while preserving its
beauty, peacefulness, and historic nature. The development of
parks and campgrounds by the State of Ohio, the building of
excellent marinas, the opening of fine bed and breakfast
hostelries, and the upgrading of old and building of new tourist
and village-oriented businesses have been a major part of this
renaissance. The reopening of a well-financed, state-of-the-art
quarry operation helps measurably to support the new economy.
Though the year-’round population has grown
slowly—now just over 350—seasonal residents expand the numbers
to over 3,000 during the spring, summer, and autumn months.
Construction of scores of fine residences throughout the island
have noticeably strained public services, but the widened tax
base helps to offset the increasing demands upon the village
coffers. Both air and water transportation to and from the
island have kept up with the growing population needs. Even
off-season, when the boat can no longer run, both high school
students and other residents regularly use the air lines to
attend school, go shopping on the mainland, and for total
transport of goods to and from the island.
While there is no island doctor, a full-time
paramedic is provided by St. Vincent/St. Mary’s Hospital of
Toledo and well-trained island volunteers serve as ‘round the
clock EMTs. Emergency health services, throughout the year,
depends mainly on the air connection. Though hunting and
fishing remain the principle pursuits of the tourists, more and
more camping, hiking, and just rest and relaxation are
activities engaged in by island visitors. In 2001 Kelleys was
designated as an Important Birding Area. Because of its
location the island is an important stopping point for birds
migrating to the south or north in the fall and spring. Bird
watchers of all skill levels are enjoying the island more each
year.
The tourist economy has “snowballed” in the past
twenty years. On some summer weekends, it is estimated that
more than 8,000 persons come to the island to enjoy what it has
to offer. Excursion boats arrive daily and visitors wend their
way along the tree-lined streets and by-ways, stopping at the
geologic, archaeological, and historic sites with which the
island abounds.
It was in the midst of and because of this rapid
growth in tourism that, in 1980, the Kelleys Island Historical
Association was organized. Its major purposes from the
beginning have been to preserve the significant relics of the
past and to inform both island residents and its visitors of the
island’s unique heritage.
The association’s first major project was the
total restoration of the German Reformed Church, known locally
as the “Old Stone Church.” This facility served as a museum,
gift shop, meeting place, and headquarters for the Historical
Association until 2006. It drew visitors and friends, quite
literally, from around the world. In the next few years, the
finishing touches will be made to the association’s most proud
achievement to date—the all new Historical Museum next to the
Old Stone Church. This new facility will house a growing
collection of island artifacts.
Among the Historical Association's other
activities are a lecture series, publication of a newsletter and
historical items, design and sale of historically inspired
mementoes, and a full schedule of fund-raising and social
activities.
Most recently, the Historical Association has
restarted an annual tour of island homes and buildings. In the
last decade, the association has grown from a mere handful of
interested residents and friends to a membership of well over
200, from throughout the United States and Canada. Governed by
an elected Board of Trustees, the association charts the
evolution of the island—to preserve and inform.
Kelleys Island began its history uniquely as a
refuge for the Erie Indians from their Iroquois adversaries.
Today, it is still a refuge for modern man from the hurly-burly
of the outside world. Few places can claim such an especial and
rich heritage!
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